The Land of Hills, Glens and Heroes.
Where the Ptarmigan thrives
And where the red deer finds shelter.
As long as mist hangs o'er the Mountains
And water runs in the glens.
The deeds of the Brave will be remembered
Health and Success forever
To the Lads from the Highlands
Cabarfeidh gu Brath!
Day 6 Coille Bhienie to Loch Errochty 14 miles
Day 6 Coille Bhienie to Loch Errochty 14 miles
Another breakfast (beans and sausages again) with a view, its a beautiful country and its looking like another great day, how lucky can you get with the weather, this is Scotland for gods sake, wheres the rain, we need rain or all conversation will cease.
Another view from the pitch, you wouldn't know it, but I'm only about 4/500 yds away from the road (its just below the pine trees on the left of the pic) its a very very quiet road being a dead end. About 5 miles up the glen at Rannoch station.
The scarp was soaked with condensation this morning, there wasn't even a hint of breeze last night or this morning, so after giving it a token wipe down, i stripped it apart an packed it away and headed off for another day sightseeing.
The scarp was soaked with condensation this morning, there wasn't even a hint of breeze last night or this morning, so after giving it a token wipe down, i stripped it apart an packed it away and headed off for another day sightseeing.
I was only a hop, skip and a jump from the western end of loch Rannoch, literary 5 minutes after getting walking i arrived at the road junction at the head of the loch, as i got there another challenger (yes ive forgotten, sorry), the first i had seen for over 24hrs came along the other road. We walked and chatted for two or three miles until our routes split at the power station. We were both heading to Errochty that night but we had different routes planned. Bloody cuckoo cuckood every step I took.
I haven't a clue how this picture turned out like this, pretty cool I thought, but its actually been taken on a really bright still morning (as seen in the pic below)
The views going down the side of the loch were really good with Schiehallion featuring rather prominently in most vistas.
To be honest, I was really glad to get to my turn off just before Craiganour lodge, although it was very quiet i was very fed up road walking and had started looking at the map constantly, willing the miles away, it didn't work.
I was a bit worried as my turn off had a very very faded half hidden "private road" sign, luckily I never saw it and wandered along a nice track for a few hundred meters until it splits from the main track & heads away up the hill, well before the lodge.
Pretty soon after the track junction theres a gate into the woods, it actually has a "right of way" sign on it, so I dont know what the sign I hadn't seen down at the rooad was all about tbh, there's no other way to get to this gate/RoW, unless your levitation skills are top notch.
After the gate your on a fairly wide pleasant track through the woods, unbeknown to me, (but it really should have been pretty obvious by the fresh clues scattered around) I wasnt alone. The woods were also home to a herd of highland coos, i finally clicked when I came around a bend in the track to be confronted by 10/15 big hairy behinds 25 meters ahead, they were moving slowly away from me, so I was moved even slower behind them until I reached a little track that I needed to take.
I was a bit worried as my turn off had a very very faded half hidden "private road" sign, luckily I never saw it and wandered along a nice track for a few hundred meters until it splits from the main track & heads away up the hill, well before the lodge.
Pretty soon after the track junction theres a gate into the woods, it actually has a "right of way" sign on it, so I dont know what the sign I hadn't seen down at the rooad was all about tbh, there's no other way to get to this gate/RoW, unless your levitation skills are top notch.
After the gate your on a fairly wide pleasant track through the woods, unbeknown to me, (but it really should have been pretty obvious by the fresh clues scattered around) I wasnt alone. The woods were also home to a herd of highland coos, i finally clicked when I came around a bend in the track to be confronted by 10/15 big hairy behinds 25 meters ahead, they were moving slowly away from me, so I was moved even slower behind them until I reached a little track that I needed to take.
This is the marked path, i think it's also the right of way, slightly overgrown but it was easy enough going and didn't last long, after a couple of hundred meters or so, there's one of the highest, narrowest stiles I've encountered, once over it the path becomes slightly more distinct. Eventually the woods end at a large deer gate, it didn't open as far as I could see, only one option for it.
No stile or style at this one, being a highly trained fully qualified gate ninja I was over it in a flash, thankfully there's no witnesses to the flash. I can't remember if the same sign was on the other side, I really hope not, as it's only since I've been writing this up that ive noticed it says the key is beside the lock, aaaaggghhhh
Out on the open hill again, initially the path is akin to walking up a small burn, as you get higher it gets nicer, the photo above its slowly morphing from a burn into a nice path, although it probably doesn't look it, this was actually another one of the really enjoyable sections, nice going underfoot, dry and so so peaceful.
The last view of loch Rannoch. Since I'd left the Rannoch road a couple of hours earlier it had been really wonderful walking. This picture was taken from within a large reasonably new fenced plantation, not the money making tightly packed rows of pine nightmares seen below, but a selection of propper mixed stuff. I passed many more of these new plantations on the challenge and ive noticed loads on subsequent wanders around the eastern cairngorms. The reforestation looks to be coming along just dandy.
I disturbed another two capercaillie here as well, wildlifes coming along just fine too it seems.
I disturbed another two capercaillie here as well, wildlifes coming along just fine too it seems.
Agh, first proper problem of the day, to the left is all serious bog, all the way to that ridge line. To the right, (out of shot) is a deer fence protecting a huge plantation. The bog went right under the fence and disapeared into the impenetrable forrest. I had been hand linning the fence and now found myself stuck between a wood and a soft place. Faced with going back and attempting to find an alternative route around the monster swamp a decision was required.
Theres no bloody way im going back. No retreat, no surrender.... Normally I can jump these or find a tuft or two to use as stepping stones, but on this occasion it wasn't happening, it was far too wide, very deep and rather soft. Never fear though, luckily as well as being a recently qualified gate ninja im also about to become an "expert level" deer fence ninja. I scaled the fence by crabbing along the wire for about 10/15 feet sideways, fun with no solid footing, a heavy bergan and a seriously flexing fence.
I had visions of the whole thing keeling over and a failed spiderman being found weeks later lying on his back in a swamp in the middle of nowhere, but It worked pretty well and I continued on with my spidey sences tingling away.
Theres no bloody way im going back. No retreat, no surrender.... Normally I can jump these or find a tuft or two to use as stepping stones, but on this occasion it wasn't happening, it was far too wide, very deep and rather soft. Never fear though, luckily as well as being a recently qualified gate ninja im also about to become an "expert level" deer fence ninja. I scaled the fence by crabbing along the wire for about 10/15 feet sideways, fun with no solid footing, a heavy bergan and a seriously flexing fence.
I had visions of the whole thing keeling over and a failed spiderman being found weeks later lying on his back in a swamp in the middle of nowhere, but It worked pretty well and I continued on with my spidey sences tingling away.
A couple of miles with no path, but no more swamps, there were plenty of sheep/deer tracks that vaguely went in the direction I wanted, so it was just a case of just go with the flow.
Eventually I got to the old sheilings, although the ground slopes in most parts, theres plenty scope here if anyone planned to bivi up, wee crystal clear burns aplenty too.
After an easy enough river crossing the path starts to become quite distinct, quickly turning from single lane into an old grown over LR track, Loch Errochty just seems to suddenly appear ahead.
There's got to be a reason every bridge in the country only has only one side to it?
The pre planned bivi site at the western end of the loch, it didn't take my fancy and it was still early, so onwards it was.
TGO Challenge 2014 MBE nomination No2 (services to the animal Kingdom), I had just passed a couple of 4x4s and a tractor parked on the track, there was also a few folk further up the hillside planting another mixed plantation by hand (that really looked like bloody hard graft).
Anyway I came upon this beastie chilling out right on the track, I knew the vehicles would soon be coming along as it was getting on supper time and this was the only way out of the glen, I had already seen two very flat adders on the walk, so I decided to do my lollipop man impression and assist a snake about to be in distress.
Anyway I came upon this beastie chilling out right on the track, I knew the vehicles would soon be coming along as it was getting on supper time and this was the only way out of the glen, I had already seen two very flat adders on the walk, so I decided to do my lollipop man impression and assist a snake about to be in distress.
Two walking poles, no ladder, some careful juggling and he was relocated onto the hill. Becoming a regular Dr Doolittle.
I eventually reached the eastern end of the loch, not before time as i was starting to feel a bit tired and very hungry now. I had been scanning about for a decent pitch for the last half hour without any joy, I stopped at the dam to read anot inscription on a cairn just inside the dam fence, I assumed the dam would be private and secured against the public, but a "please close gate" sign is always a give away of free access, so I went through to have a look at the dam anyway that turned out to be a good move as i discovered the second best pitch in the world (Kylie, already there, with her come to my scarp eyes for a barbie would have elevated it to best pitch).
I pitched on the southern end of the dam and had a walk over to the other side on a wee recce just in case Kylie had pitched over here, it also gave me a great route option for tomorrow, as I hadn't previously realised I could cut across here.
A couple of pitched up views, note boots, insoles and socks on the ready made airer. Chicken and mushroom pasta BIB tonight and very nice it was to.
Just as I settled down for a night in (alone) with a fine pinotage and kindle book a jogger and his dug ran by with a cheery wave, pretty much confirming my "open to the public" view.
Day 6 Thoughts and impressions.
Another fantastic day although long road walks on hot days can get a tadge tedious, cuckoo soup sounds like a plan, flat pitches are the dogs, will this write up ever end.
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